Prepare for gold chains and plenty of beads.


Bonjour! With fashion month finishing last week in the city of love and croissants, what better time to connect with some of our favourite Parisienne-based designers. I went to meet fine jewellery designer (and serious art buff) Lauren Rubinski at her home near the Musée Rodin for a quick tête-à-tête and to see her newest collections. 

Rubinski herself is very KOI, upon entering the flat you’re met with gigantic donut ringed sculptures in tonal colours and pastel hues by Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, bright paintings, and Rubinski is dressed in colourful stripes, a green pleated midi-skirt, and is practically drowning in gold jewellery and beads. “I love pieces you can wear everyday, I like to mix without thinking about it. Jewellery should not just be for a ball, and there shouldn't be a specific reason as to why you wear it, you should be able to add as much as you want and feel free,” said Rubinski when asked about her serious penchant for extreme layering.

Jewellery is not a new notion for Rubinski, ever since childhood she’s had a fascination for collecting and putting pieces together, and she launched her first label Pristine when she was only 24. 

But the past two years have been a busy time. In 2020 Rubinski launched her namesake label focusing on stackable, often colourful, and surprisingly lightweight designs, handcrafted in Italy by master goldsmiths. Shortly after, she amassed fans among the likes of Kate Moss and Hailey Beiber, and this week will open a brand new store in Bon Marche right next to the prestigious Tiffany’s. “It’s such an exciting time for us as a brand, we are growing so fast, and to have a store in one of the best places in Paris means so much,” said Rubinski.

Starting with gold chain jewellery, often perforated with diamonds, and her infamous ‘love beads’ (which are always a sell-out product here at KOIBIRD), Rubinski has now expanded her collections to include new unisex necklaces, anklets, charms - there was a quirky gold shark with diamond eyes - and new rings made with enamel, diamonds, and rubies. They looked like little kaleidoscopic wagon wheels. 

One of the most intriguing innovations of Rubinski is the way she can create lightweight jewellery, none of her chunky beaded gold necklaces weigh you down (and I can attest to this, her gold MAMA necklace is a favourite - and available now online), nor do her earrings and bracelets, “it’s a secret method that has taken years to develop, and we can’t tell you how,” she says to me with a smile and wink. “I hate it when women complain that their ears hurt, or jewellery is heavy, you should be able to layer up as much jewellery as you like. It should never feel constricting like so many clothes do, my jewellery is made for real life.”

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Her bead letter necklaces continue to be her most popular, along with her chains, but in keeping with the initial trend (that shows no sign of abating), she will launch single lettered necklaces which you can customise. 

When it comes to plans for the future, Rubinski is determined; “Our brand ethos is we will be here for hundreds of years, we will have our own heritage, even long after I am gone.” And with that, she ups and leaves, “there’s a lot to do,” and with such an empire to build, how can I disagree?

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